Many people have asked how I get my bricks so uniform, and I can tell you they are close but not exact.  The bricks I make are 1/4" x 3/4" for most projects.  This is a little off from exact 1:12 scale, but they look spot on when finished.  Whatever size you use, you do want consistency.  Painting and grouting make up for any obvious flaws, and if a brick is too far off from the rest I just don't use that one.

I first learned of egg carton brickwork from two great sites: The China Doll and Victoria Miniland.  I use the method from The China Doll.

I obtain egg cartons from various sources: my own household, mom and a local freecycle group I belong to.  You can post want ads or reply to offers on that site, and it's free!  :D

I use the flat surfaces of the lid and recycle the bottoms with the egg cups.  You could get bricks from the cups, but to me it isn't worth the extra time and effort.  I also use the interior surface as the brick face since it has a nice bumpy texture.  Words and images won't matter after painting.

I cut the pieces into manageable flat sections.  The large, flat top is obviously the best source of bricks, but the smaller pieces yield quite a few.

I mark one edge with a ruler and use scissors to cut along that line.  If you aren't good at keeping scissors on a straight line, you can use a sharp X-Acto knife.

From that clean, straight edge, I mark four 1/4" increments in several places along the edge.

I use my ruler to join those marks and make guidelines.

I cut along those guidelines.  Again, I use scissors since my sewing experience gives me a steady hand at cutting straight lines with them.  You can use an X-Acto blade, too.

After the fourth strip is cut, the edge is usually off a little.  I draw a new line across and clean up the edge before repeating the 1/4" increments until I run out of egg carton.

I square up the ends of each strip with scissors and then mark 3/4" increments along the strip.

If I am bricking around any corners, I also cut 1" long bricks.  These will have approximately 3/4" showing on one side and approximately 1/4" around the bend.  Here's the chimney at Baxter Pointe Villa painted with layers of brown acrylics and grouted in grey.  You can see the 1" long bricks used around the corners.  They are cut to fit, so the length measurements aren't precise.

At the end of each strip, there is usually a piece that is too short.  I mark that with an X and put it in a separate pile.  When you do brickwork, you often need short or angled pieces.  These leftovers are already the right height and can be cut to fit those smaller areas without wasting your full sized bricks.

Once I have a pile of bricks, I cut the corners from each one.  This gives them a more natural appearance in my opinion.

Here are my four new bricks with a bunch I've cut previously.  They are all close in size and shape but they do vary.

I keep a large ziploc bag for my finished bricks.  I keep a smaller bag inside for bricks that have been cut to size but the corners still need to be trimmed.  I also have a bag for scraps.  If I've cut a different sized brick, I use a note inside the bag so I can tell which is which.

For the Heritage chimney, I used guidelines drawn on my underlying structure to plan the exact number of bricked rows I would need and to keep the structure aligned properly.

For herringbone brickwork, I use graph paper as a guide.  You don't really fill in the squares per se, but the grid helps create a more uniform pattern.

However, I usually don't bother with guidelines for straight brickwork.  I am able to eye measurements well, so I just glue the bricks with a little bit of give in between them and check with a ruler every other row to make sure I haven't gotten too far off.

For the Newport foundation, I used larger bricks to mimic stone - 5/16" x 13/16".  I didn't use guidelines but did attempt to use a spacer, but you'll find the bricks aren't uniform and a spacer can actually make things more difficult and result in a lopsided look to the rows.  I haven't used a spacer since.  You can also see that I cut half bricks at the top of the foundation base to finish off the surface.

I use Aleene's Quick Dry glue to apply the bricks.  Once the bricks are in place and the glue has dried, I paint with acrylics in the color of my choice.  I use a stencil brush and stipple the paint on since brushstrokes can ruin the illusion.

Once I have the color I want, I seal the surface for grouting.  The grouting process will change the coloration, so keep that in mind when you paint.  You can touch it up later.  For instructions on painting, sealing and grouting, see my post on finishing the Heritage foundation.

For instructions on aging the brickwork, see my post on adding grime and moss to the Heritage foundation.

I love minis and mini-ing.  :D

But, the best part of starting this creative outlet for me has been the friendships I've discovered, from all around the world.  Some of you I know only through our respective blogs, some of you I know through forums as well.  Some I've conversed with outside of the online communities and some I've met and formed friendships in person.

I have one such friendship with Lyssa.  She and I met through the mini forums, and she is one of the best people I've met in my life.  So young and so devoted to her young children, she is an inspiration to me.  And, when I am feeling blue, she cheers me up and helps me get back on my feet.

She even sent me a care package some time ago with books, movies, tissues, chocolate, Scotch and even some minis in need of makeovers.  It made a blue period in my life better, and I treasure the friendship minis have brought to me.

One of the minis was this gaudy and rickety brass thing...I am not sure if it was meant as a crib or shelf.  But, I saw it as a planter.  After a coat of primer, followed by flat black, followed by brown textured paint, it became an old rusty plant stand.

I had originally planned to list it on etsy with the other pieces I've finished and upholstered...but the Heritage took one look at it and said, "MINE!"  :D

The flowers are by Michelle at Little Rabbit Minis, and I made the snake plant.  I'll make some plants specifically for this stand once I get to the exterior.

Thank you, Lyssa, not only for the minis but especially the friendship!

Last year, I shared the final chimney build for the Spring Fling, but this year I'll have to keep most of it under wraps.  But, I can show you the initial structure.

I started with regular white stryofoam for the side walls since it was easy to cut and to shape with sandpaper.  I added builders foam across the front only because I had the perfect sized scrap for the opening.  The back and upper sides are foam core board and the upper front is balsa...a little bit of everything from the scrap box.

The back of the fireplace is made from egg carton bricks placed in a herringbone pattern.  As I had done for the Heritage chimney, I used a printed grid to help keep the pattern consistent.

Ok, that's enough...pull the curtain closed.  :D  You'll see it again in September.

I am now at 147 hours of stitching time on the Navajo rug.  Two things slowed my progress this past month: the Bishop/IMA/3 Blind Mice mini shows (hooray) and cutting my finger bad enough to need stitches (boo).

I finished stitching Caterina's orange tree tapestry.  This was stitched on 28 count mushroom Aida, using half cross-stitch.  It took 12 hours, and the final binding shouldn't take much more than an hour or two.

April's orange tree is up next!  :D

My stitches are out, and I am back at it in full force!  :D

I'll be using the greenhouse addition with the Spring Fling kit, though I've eliminated the working door.

To fill in the doorway space, I used the door pieces but cut away the middle separators and glued the altered door in place.  I probably should have removed the upper crossbar on the door, but I think it's workable as is.

The paint is Clover by Folk Art two coats with a light sanding in between.  It's such a nice color.

The greenhouse isn't assembled yet since I am still deciding on a couple of details, including the flooring and the type of roof I will use.  I also didn't use the acetate window inserts or the screen included with the kit.  You'll see why later on.