The Quicker Brick

by brae  

No, I will never give up on egg carton brickwork, but I tried an experiment to help a friend out with a brick floor project.  We were thinking egg carton brick, but she has a Beacon Hill and three large floors to fill.  Even with awesome results, cutting egg carton bricks is time consuming and daunting to say the least.

Then the other day I was down a Pinterest rabbit hole, and I ran across an old entry from Tiny Handmade.  The miniaturist had made a wood tile floor from popsicle sticks. I thought, what about skinny sticks?  :D

Skinny sticks are 1/4" wide, have a flat side and rounded edges on the other side. The rounded edges will give a break between the bricks, so I made sure to use that side facing up.  And, as with dating, you also want to weed out the obviously warped ones.

I measured 3/4" bricks and used my Easy Cutter Ultimate to make quick work of cutting.

A little sanding on the edges to get rid of the excess.

I glued them to my sample template (just a piece of black paper without lines).  They have enough variance to make for more realistic looking bricks but are pretty uniform in width to make bricking easy.  Strip wood would be too uniform and you'd have no gaps between the bricks unless you made the rounded edges.

I stippled on Moon Yellow by Americana using a stencil brush, which gave it a subtle texture.  These are going to be relatively smooth bricks compared to the bumpy egg carton material.  If you wanted more surface texture, you could use gel medium dabbed on with a sponge brush before painting.  But, having them nice and smooth will make furniture placement on the surface much easier.  Here the paint is still wet.

Grouting didn't seem necessary as I just made sure there was excess paint in the grooves to cover evenly, but that would be simple enough to add with spackling, grout or other filler.  These would work especially well for a painted brick wall or floor since you aren't going to be able to bend these around a three dimensional object.

Milo Valley Farm - barn door, part 2

by brae  

I mentioned my barn door hardware inspiration in a previous post, but before I get to that part, I need to build the barn doors.  I've made weathered doors before, for Baslow Ranch, and those were made from laser cut plywood.  You can still get a good approximation starting there, so I used those as inspiration.

from Baslow Ranch

I dug through my bins of scrap wood and cut two pieces of 1/8" thick plywood measuring 4 3/16" wide by8 3/8" tall.

I measured and scored 1/2" wide planks for each door on both sides.  I cut, marred and applied strips of basswood to make the supports.  Using the same technique as I had for the siding, I made fake nail holes.

I painted the doors to match the barn.  Since the wood started as a different color, the barn doors are slightly off from the rest.  They are also still wet.  We'll see what they look like after drying.

I added support for the main cross boards.

I then cut the cross boards from the same wood as the doors and added basswood pieces to fill in under the door opening.

Meow.  :D

I'll paint the remaining pieces and address the hardware next. #HBSCreatinContest2015

Milo Valley Farm - faking a structure

by brae  

I roughed up the windows with sandpaper and added one last dark wash to the frames before gluing them in place.  They sit flush on the outside and protrude on the interior.  With the windows and flooring installed, I can now address the interior structure.  This is by no means meant to be a precise carpentry replica.  It's meant to disguise seams and give the illusion of a structured barn as well as provide a way to hide the 12V wiring system.  I painted all the pieces prior to cutting and gluing.

I started with adding 3/16" x 1/4" boards along the outside edges of the floor.  For the board on the side with the electricity, I made sure not to cover the hole in the board with my floral wire lead.  (This is for the actual 12V system, not the knob and tube.)

Along the roof line, I had to cut curved pieces from 3/16" thick plywood since I didn't have extra trim pieces to spare.  I would have needed a double thickness of the supplied trim on each side to match the rest of the beams, and the kit comes with only two pieces.  I used the kit exterior trim as a pattern then cut the pieces to fit inside.

I used 1/4" x 3/8" channel molding along the top of the side windows and to make three main vertical supports, one each on either side of the window and one roughly centered toward the front.  I added 3/16" x 1/4" vertical studs in the corners.

I cut channel molding pieces to span the room in two places, hitting at the tops of the two outer vertical supports.  These cross beams are not glued and will hold the lighting fixtures when I get to that part (the wall beams on the electrical side were also left loose for now).  I thought about adding a third, but with the curved ceiling beams yet to be added, this will be busy enough.  These two will serve a purpose of holding lights whereas the middle one would just add visual clutter.

I added additional trim under the windows.  You can somewhat see on the far right in the photo below that I also added channel trims from floor to ceiling on either side of the barn door opening.

I made angled supports for the vertical beams.  I will make angled supports for the cross beams later on.

To finish the upper part of the back wall, I just added a piece of strip wood instead of making tiny siding boards.  The curved ceiling beams will remain removable until I am ready to put on the roof.

For the removable back wall, the floor trim is glued to the floor but not to the back wall and the top trim is glued to the channel that holds the sliding wall.  The faux beam trim is thin and glued to the wall but doesn't interfere with the functionality.

It's a decent illusion at first glance and creates continuity with the side wall detailing.

I think we're getting somewhere.  :D #HBSCreatinContest2015

My new-to-me toolbox

by brae  

I must have barn finds on the mind.  :D  I was at one of the local thrift stores and picked up a few odds and ends: craft paint, a mini organizer, small bowls to keep my veggies from scooting all over the plate when I'm trying to eat dinner, etc.  But, the best buy of the day was this heavy beast for only $10.

It's not dated and the hardware looks newer, but it has a great vintage vibe to it with just the right amount of patina.

It's very clean inside, just a little dust.


It's so heavy you could knock someone out with it, and that's empty!  :O

Milo Valley Farm - faking a structure - sneak peek

by brae  

This process is taking longer than anticipated, but here's a sneak peek of the work so far.  I'm roughly half way done.  :D  #HBSCreatinContest2015

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