Ivy Hollow - screen door, part 1

by brae  

Before I can build a new frame for my Houseworks door and screen door, I need to build said screen door.  I'll want the screen door to be fairly thin but stable enough for hinges.  I'm using the sandwich method I used on the Otter Cove modern door with a few changes.  In fact, the solid door I'll be using is the leftover part from Otter Cove's door frame.  :D

I started with a new package of Aluminum Micro-Mesh by Scale Scenics. This material is finer and stiffer than the screen material that came with the Greenleaf screen door, though I do like the black a little better.  I have tried painting this mesh before without success, so perhaps I will try some blackening product on it to see if that will work.  If not, I hope the silver metal won't be too much for a darker color door.  If so, I might have to change my planned trim colors.

The package comes with black cardstock to show off the mesh, so I used that for my inner portion.  Nothing goes to waste that can serve a purpose.  :]

I cut a rectangle the size of the Houseworks door.

I cut the mesh to fit as best as possible over the Houseworks door.  I will build an outer frame similar to the solid door.

I marked the rough placement on the black card stock.

I cut out an inner rectangle that would encompass the mesh.

Using the solid door as a guide, I cut a border from 3/8" by 1/16" strip wood for the top and sides, and 1/2" by 1/16" strip wood for the bottom.  I went with wider boards not only because the mesh is limited in size but also because I need the door to be substantial enough to function.  If you look up vintage wood screen doors, you'll find a lot of heavy, substantial doors.  I can hear the bang as it slams shut in the wind.  :D

The cardstock fits over the strip wood, and the piece of mesh fits inside the cardstock.

Another set of matching wood strips completes the other side of the door sandwich.  :]  I'll add some crossbars and supports later during the final assembly.

None of this is glued, because it would never stay together during the painting process.  I'll paint the initial coat on these pieces (and crossbar strips) and attempt to darken the mesh next, then I will assemble and touch up the paint.  Stay tuned....


Comment from: Debora L. [Visitor]
Love this!
04/02/19 @ 21:43
Comment from: Sheila [Visitor]
Oh this will be so cool! For the WQRC windows I used aluminum mesh and got Aluminum Black off of Amazon. It's cheap and comes in a bottle. It's liquid that you can brush onto the mesh or dip the mesh into it if you have a shallow container. Just make sure you're in a well ventilated area or outside because Fumes! Gah. They're bad. But you'll get that nice black screen look and the stuff lasts a while so you can use it for other projects.
04/03/19 @ 06:41
Comment from: brae [Member]
Thank you! :>> I have some of the Aluminum Black on order. :yes:
04/04/19 @ 21:12
Comment from: Deb [Visitor]
Another good choice for coloring metal (and all kinds of things, really) is gilder's paste. Here's one source: https://www.firemountaingems.com/itemdetails/h205536bs I'm sure there are others. Comes in all kinds of colors. They say you need to varnish it after application, but for things that aren't going to get handled much, I've had great luck just leaving it. For something like mesh you could apply with a stencil brush, which should leave the holes unclogged.
04/05/19 @ 01:23
Comment from: Jodi [Visitor]
The card is going to make it so much more stable! Brilliant!
04/05/19 @ 09:28
Comment from: elizabeth s [Visitor]
It's gonna be GOOD!
04/05/19 @ 12:23
Comment from: Marijke Rolink [Visitor]
What a great details beautiful! groetjes van Marijke
04/06/19 @ 08:36
Comment from: Cyd [Visitor]
OMG! That little dragon fly is to die for! Nice finds!
04/27/19 @ 19:47

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