The final part of the Steampunk Holiday ensemble is the jacket with faux vest.
I altered Simplicity 2172 to make the jacket - changing the front slightly and cropping a lot of the length. I also omitted the shoulder detailing, cuffs, pocket welts and back lacing.
I made a quick mockup of cotton fabric to test the fit and help with the front alteration. I altered the front pattern piece with the vest portion by cutting off the lower piece that attaches to the side front. I made a straight size 6, adding 3/8" to the front edge of the vest for a better fit over the corset.
I eliminated the pocket welts by using lining pattern piece 10 for the side front. This substitution and the omission of the back lacing cut down a lot of time in construction. I lined the chocolate velvet vest insert with brown satin and constructed each piece separate from the coat. I put the buttonholes in at this time since it's easier to work with a small piece.
When it came time to sewing in the lining, I basted the vest fronts to the jacket beforehand. This gives a more realistic impression of a vest under a jacket.
The rest of the jacket has charcoal and light grey polka dot satin lining. :D
To finish the outer edge, I added grey-brown Venise lace. I didn't limit the lace to the neckline but added it all the way around the suiting portion of the jacket.
The whole ensemble...
From the back...
The party was great fun with good food and good conversation. :]
As I mentioned in the previous post on the Steampunk Holiday ensemble, I finished the skirt about a week ago. It was a very simple pattern - front, back, lower flounce and a waistband.
I have it sitting a little low in today's photos, so I'll have to adjust that. But, it doesn't get in the way when I walk.
It looks great when walking, too...gets narrow at the knee and the fishtail flares.
It's made from Vogue 7698. I made no alterations except omitting the lining.
I added the knife pleated satin and velvet trim around the top of the fishtail flare. It's just enough to accent the drape of the fabric.
I think a proper steampunk ensemble is supposed to involve tall lace-up boots, but I didn't have time to shop for those. Instead, I'll be wearing these...Aerosoles Minor Role. :D
Continuing work on the Steampunk Holiday ensemble. I finished up the corset, which has a separating zipper in the back. It looks a little boxy here in the photo, but it has a flattering fit when worn. I made it snug enough to not fall down and to give a nice silhouette, but loose enough so I can enjoy the mashed potatoes at the dinner and still sit down! :D
I thought it looked a little plain, so I will add an edge of Venise lace trim.
It won't take away from the ivory since it matches in color, but it will dress up the neckline.
I finished the skirt about a week ago but haven't photographed it yet. :]
Continuing work on the Steampunk Holiday ensemble. I looked for cream colored flowers, but none spoke to me that weren't way too huge to have on top of my head. :D I ended up buying a package of 4 dark red felt roses at Michael's. These are by Jolee's Boutique, and there were four on a card. Each had a sticky pad on the back, but I removed that so I could glue them to the hat and to each other. I chose a grouping of three for balance and full coverage of the feather stalk.
On the inside, I glued a pad of millinery batting in the middle of the hat. This helped even out the bulk of the turned velvet around the edge.
I then cut a piece of taffeta left over from the skirt to line the hat and used a blind stitch to sew the lining in place. Sometimes I use combs for hats, but this time I opted for two barrette clips.
My finished hat! :D
I really love it. It's the perfect size, very lightweight and stays just where it's supposed to with the clips.
It jingles only a little, which is good...Jasper would never let me out of the house otherwise. Cat, stop batting my head...I have a party to attend!!! :\
Continuing work on the Steampunk Holiday ensemble. With the hat wired, I added a layer of millinery batting on the top surface using a light amount of Aleene's Quick Dry glue.
I then placed the scrap of chocolate velvet over the batting. I had cut the piece to use the thin selvedge for the back point. This cuts down on the bulk of the fabric turned under the edge. I snipped the curve of the fabric and pinned the velvet in place on the underside, adjusting the fit as I went around.
It's important to keep a smooth top surface and outer edge. I then sewed the velvet to the buckram using my curved quilting needle, being careful not to catch the velvet on the top side. I tried the hat on and adjusted the bend of the wire. I pinned the feather bundle in place and then stitched it to the hat, running the thread through all layers.
The back point tips down so you won't see the lining underneath when the hat is worn.
Next up, embellishments to hide the feather stalk.