Watson Mill - more decorating

by brae  

To add stability to the side walls, I glued strips of Tyvek in place.  I love this material since it is strong but thin enough not to interfere with most wallpapers and flooring.

I liked the appearance of the aged plaster wallpaper design joining directly with the flooring in the mockup photos I've been using, so that's what I tried to accomplish in the finished room. Even with careful measuring, the front wallpaper ended up a little short.  I glued a cardboard underlayment to make up the difference.  It's like a real life floor!  :D

Since the structure is nearly a square, I could install the flooring either direction.  It would need to be pieced either way since the width/depth is more than 11 inches.  The bedroom is a long skinny room, so I let that determine the direction of the floor boards. Front to back seemed best, so I did the first floor to match.

Time to install the wood flooring on the first floor. I had previously stained the red oak flooring with Minwax Dark Walnut. I burnished the surface with a scrap of paper bag and then sealed with two coats of Delta Ceramcoat Matte Varnish. It's an old floor, but perhaps it was refinished during the renovations. I put the pieced seam toward the door wall since it would be mostly covered there.  I painted the underlayment in the couple of spaces where there was a slight gap.

Before I can glue the bedroom floor in place, I need to finish the ceiling board.  I lined the two ceiling openings with strip wood and spackled any gaps.

I painted the board, finishing the ceiling for the first floor in crisp white to reflect light.  I stippled the paint to create a delicate texture I thought would go better with the aged appearance of the wallpaper.  The texture also hides the wood grain.  Since there's still work to be done on the main floor, I will leave the ceiling board loose for now.

I checked the fit of the library wallpaper and then installed that as well.  I still need to determine what finish I want in the bedroom, but even if I piece the same blue paper, there will be a railing around the dumbwaiter opening to disguise any seams.

Then I glued the remaining piece on the door side.  Exactly the look I wanted.  :]

Watson Mill - the end of the dry fit

by brae  

Since I had left the original door and window in place on the kit front, I had to even out the raised portions of the die cuts.  I used 60 grit sandpaper taped to a scrap of wood to flat sand the raised areas away.  I touched up the gesso primer afterwards.

I finished gluing the circle library, cut some shims for behind the mirror, removed the protective covering and pushed the circle in place.

The circle can be taken out to clean or replace the mirror as needed.

I marked the dumbwaiter opening on the side wall between the floors and filled in the open portion of the channel.

I cut a piece of wallpaper to fit (Happenstance Fluke by The Paper Loft).  This will be glued after the walls are in place, but it is easier to measure and cut while flat.

The front wallpaper needed to be installed before gluing the walls in place since there's a side board for the circle library that abuts that wall.  Installing beforehand means I don't have to guess at the clearance needed for the wallpaper.  There is a tab on the right side to hide the seam in that corner.

I was dealing with a warp in the front board, so I added steel rod spikes at the corners to help hold the wall straight.  I still used wood glue, but the pins kept the wall straight while the glue set and will provide stability to the join.

Ready?  It was scary, but I glued the library wall and front wall in place, letting the join set before adding the remaining side wall.  I added a strip of Tyvek to the exterior join for stability.

For the side wall, I applied glue for the wall and then applied some wallpaper mucilage to the tab.  Saves me the hassle of trying to apply glue to the tab in place after the fact. No photo since I had to work fast here.

I had drilled pilot holes into the front board for nails.  I continued the pilot holes and then added finishing nails.  Earlier, I had decided it was easier to run the floor lamp wire into the attic space, so you can see the new channel I hand cut on the outside to join with the interior upper channel in the bedroom.

I taped the upper back wall in place just to hold the structure.  There is more work to be done on this wall, so it will stay loose for now.  The ceiling board is also loose for now but used to hold the structure square for gluing.

We're getting there!  :D

Watson Mill - electrical plan, part 2

by brae  

Things always come up when the warmer weather hits, and I get out and about with friends and family.  Then on my "days off" from festivities, I relax and recuperate to start the work week all over again.  So, the blog slows down this time of year, but I do try to keep motivated.  I've also been feeling the sewing bug, but I haven't worked on anything in particular there, either.  Just mulling over ideas.

Back to the mill.  Getting out of dry fit for me always entails a lot of prep due to the chicken-or-egg scenarios that pop up along the way.  Before I could glue the brick foundation in place, I needed to address part of the landscaping since I didn't want to risk marring the brickwork.  I used stucco patch to even out the builders foam slopes on three sides, leaving the door wall until later.  I painted the finished portions black brown afterward.

I glued the brick foundation to the builders foam using Weldbond glue and weighted it under magazines overnight.  The next night, I ran my wires for the attic space through the foam and out the back.

I used Sharpies this time to mark the ends so I didn't have to guess which wire was which later on.

I didn't bother for the motor wires since there are only two of them.  I am using 22 gauge wire because it matches the lead wires from the motors.

I left a lot of lead for the motor wires but will still likely use an extension cord for the transformer.  I ran the wire bunches through holes in the floor board that correspond to the side wall channels.  To keep things from getting unruly, I taped the wires into looped bunches.  For the wires coming out the back, I used twist ties since tape residue will wear off on the wires if you leave it too long.  The taped bunches will be used right away.

I then glued the bottom floorboard in place and weighted the assembly with magazines and large clamps.  More drying time....  :]

Auguste

by brae  

This is Auguste, and he is as cute as a button.  :D

Auguste is a clever hedgehog made by A. Gabriela Z. Rodriguez of agzr*studios.

She included a strawberry house and food bowl.  I love the strawberry especially.  It's the perfect hideout and makes me want to build a blanket fort for myself!  :D

Watson Mill - wash stand

by brae  

I bought this pale yellow metal wash stand from The Dolls House Emporium some time ago mainly because I liked the shape and color (looks like they don't have it anymore).  It didn't come with a bowl, but I didn't have a home in mind for it anyway so it went into the stash.

I'll be using this for the upper room of the mill and needed to find a bowl.  The small shelf in the back and the size of the hole limited what would fit.  The ceramic bowls I had were either too small around and fell through the hole or were too tall and wouldn't fit under the shelf.  Debora said she had the Chrysnbon chamber set and would send me the bowl and pitcher.  They are plastic but very well detailed.  They also were a perfect fit.

I sprayed them with white gloss spray paint followed by several coats of gloss sealer.

They look fairly convincing as porcelain if you don't look inside the pitcher to see the mold lines.

Thank you, Debora, for helping Gustav stay clean and fresh!  :D

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