Teapot clock and bird statue

by brae  

Jewelry findings make for great minis.  I bought a string of teapot shaped beads by Madame Delphine.  I found a photo of a clock online and printed it on an Avery label.  I then mounted the label on a scrap of balsa.

I cut out the clock face and pressed it into the back of the bead.  I didn't end up using glue on this since the fit was tight.  Here the back is shown before I painted the wood black so it wouldn't show from the side when attached to the wall.

I mounted it on the wall above the door in the kitchen.


click image to enlarge

The other item I made is a bird statue from a sterling silver charm and a wooden bead.  I cut the loop from the top of the bird charm and glued the piece to the bead.  I am not even trying to fool myself into thinking it will stay put forever (I've glued it twice already), but as long as I don't touch it and leave it on the shelf, it will be okay.

Kitchen range hood and new backsplash idea

by brae  

Originally I was going to make upper kitchen cabinets and a range hood for this side of the kitchen.  But, after making a mockup of the range hood, I decided I liked it on its own.  The range hood is made from a block of balsa and decorative wood trim.  I built a lip on the bottom of the balsa base so it would look like there was a vent.  I had photos of the process, but my hard drive crashed and I lost them.  (I knew it was coming, so I didn't lose much else.)

Here it is with just primer, before sanding and finishing.

I searched for more ideas online and found some nice images of tin ceiling tiles used as a backsplash.  It seemed like something fairly easy to replicate since Houseworks makes a sheet of vinyl molded to mimic tin ceilings.

I first taped a piece of scrap paper to the wall behind the oven and bottom cabinets.

After mounting the range hood with tape and placing the ceiling board on, I marked where I wanted the tin tiles to end.  I used the paper as a template to cut a piece of the tin ceiling sheet.  I plan to paint the vinyl sheet and the range hood.

Bird prints, completed

by brae  

In an earlier post, I wrote about making a set of nine vintage bird prints from images I found on etsy from A History of British Birds, published in the 1850s by Rev. Francis Orpen Morris.  I finally finished making the tiny frames.  I had a fair amount of waste wood left over, even with the use of an Easy Cutter, because the frames had to be as close in size as possible since I wanted to hang them as a set.

Here they are above the sideboard in the kitchen's dining area.  The box is a silver and Swarovski crystal charm by Jolee's Jewels and it opens.  The shell is real, but this is the only way I can display it since there are holes drilled through it to string on a necklace.


The sideboard is from the same Mayberry Street set as the dining chairs that I had modified in a previous post.

After new coat of paint (before painting the hardware silver).

Kitchen sink

by brae  

The kitchen sink that came with the Euro Mini's sink cabinet was very shallow and not exactly what I wanted.

The hole in the top of the cabinet for the sink was deep, so there was plenty of room to add a deeper sink.  My attempts at making a sink out of polymer clay were lumpy and rather sad.  :(  So, I built one out of 1/8" basswood and balsa.

I first measured and cut the vertical pieces to fit inside the opening in the cabinet.  I then glued them onto a thin sheet of balsa using a jig.  Before enclosing the box, I used a metal sewing eyelet to punch a hole for a drain.

Once the basic box was dry, I cut the balsa base to fit and drilled a hole in the base cabinet to match up with the drain.

Using 1/4" half round strip wood, I built a frame for the top of the sink box.

I used a tiny bit of spackle to fill in any gaps between the frame and the box.

I watered down the paint so the finish would dry without any brush marks, sanding in between coats to remove any imperfections that would give away the fact that the sink is wood and not porcelain.  Once the paint finish was dry, I added a couple of coats of gloss sealer (Delta Ceramcoat gloss varnish).  To get the effect in the bottom of the sink, I let the gloss sealer pool.  I also covered it after applying the gloss to keep dust from settling on the finish.

UPDATE (01-12-10)
Alas, the above sink is no more.  :(  The gloss varnish cracked and yellowed in the thicker areas when it dried.  I had used it on the faux granite without a problem.  Thin coats of this varnish work great.

I made a second sink, and this time I used Triple Thick Brilliant Brush-On Gloss Glaze by DecoArt for the finish.

The finish turned out like porcelain again, though the glaze was definitely thick and not easy to use.  You have to work fast because it dries so fast.  I am pleased with the second sink but disappointed that the varnish I had used ruined the first.

Here the sink is installed in the cabinet with the sewing eyelet drain pressed into place.  Crisis averted!  :D

Update 02-20-10:
Well, I spoke too soon.  The second varnish (Triple Thick Brilliant Brush-On Gloss Glaze by DecoArt) turned yellow, too.  There are big letters on the front of the package that read, "Non-Yellowing," so I don't know what happened.

I wasn't going to give up on the second sink without trying to fix it first.  I removed it from the cabinet, removed the hardware and gave it two coats of Krylon indoor/outdoor gloss white spray paint.  It worked!  :D

Kitchen wallpaper

by brae  

I had originally planned to use light grey scrapbook paper throughout the kitchen and dining areas - Glass Slipper by Bazzill Basics - but I ran into two problems.  First, with the white brick on one wall and light grey wallpaper on the rest, the room lacked visual impact.  Second, and more importantly, I had cut the pieces to run between the white painted connectors and it just didn't look right with the white vertical breaks in color.  I didn't have any more of the Glass Slipper paper, and we're effectively snowed in here at the moment, so I used a darker grey that I had on hand - Tiara by Bazzill Basics.  It has the same texture and sheen as the lighter paper, so it blends well.

I used a simple technique for measuring and cutting the paper to follow the wall contours to cover the connectors.  I started by measuring the wall height and cut the paper off along the top.  Using one factory straight edge as my starting edge, I scored the paper (either on the front or back depending on the direction of the fold) to follow the first angle.  I folded the scored paper over the edge of my cutting board to get a crisp line.  I placed the paper back in place to check for accuracy and then marked the next fold.  Using a ruler isn't as effective as just holding the paper in place and marking where the next fold should be since the walls are not usually straight.  Once I had all my folds in place, I held it in place to mark and cut the window opening.

Here is one bay piece scored and folded, ready to be pasted in place.

I left a little extra on the trailing end that would be covered by the adjacent piece to help hide any gaps between the two pieces.  Below the two side pieces are glued in place using Yes! paste, and the middle flat piece will overlap their edges.  Note: I no longer recommend Yes paste - I use Wallpaper Mucilage instead.  Yes paste has problems with longevity.

As you can see, no white shows along the sides of the middle bay piece.

On the long wall, I placed the seam where the range hood and backsplash will be so the break in the paper won't be visible.  The doorway to the living room will be framed with trim so those gaps will also be hidden.

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