Wood stove

by brae  

The Artist's Studio is small but it needs a method of heating.  I thought about simple radiators, but where's the fun in that?  :D  Here's my paper mockup of the wood stove for the living area.  The bathroom will have a simple radiator.

When I first started looking at wood stoves online, I liked the ones with decorative doors the best.  I bought a Grandt Line O scale diamond pattern window (3743) to serve as the door.  It comes in three parts, and I used two of the three to make the door.  I also bought a small resin fire from Mainly Minis.

I made a quick paper mockup to test the overall stove size to fit the door and fire.  I have the wood dowel from the original HBS Loft kit to serve as the stove pipe, but I rolled up a piece of paper for the mockup.  I pinned on wood beads for the legs.

I think it's a little short overall, so I plan to add a base for wood storage like this one from Charnwood.

I like a the basic elements of the Charnwood stove, so I made this sketch for mine.  I believe mat board will be the best material for the final stove.  Kris at 1 Inch Minis does amazing things with mat board, and I've enjoyed working with it using her tutorials. 

I had originally thought about bricking all the way up the wall in addition to the base under the stove, but then I saw this photo from hearth.com showing a partial brick wall.  Love it!

The stove rounds out the rest of the furnishings for the living area....nice and cozy!  :D

I also made a photocopy of the blue medallion rug I've been stitching to see if it will work in the space.  I took two copies of the finished half and taped them together.  I think there should be enough room for it here.  No way would I put a white base rug in front of a wood stove or in a painting studio in real life, but in mini-land...it's all good!

The Artist's Studio - lighting plan

by brae  

With the new Dremel Trio in my possession, I can now cut wiring channels more precisely and quickly than by hand.  I doubt I've seen the last of my handcut channels, mainly because plans change once a build starts.  However, I am trying to put in the main channels I'll need before assembly.

I plan to have two sconces by the daybed.  As noted before, I rewired these Lundby lamps with non-replaceable bulbs.

For reference, here is what the replaceable candle socket looked like when I tried it.  The bulb sticks out from the bottom and the socket would be difficult to affix to the inside.

Since I'll be using non-replaceable bulbs, I need a backup plan in case I ever need to rewire these lamps.  I'll rout out an area on the outside of this wall to curl excess wires as needed and will not cover this area with siding.  I will disguise the bare patch with a wall fountain.  :D

There will be a table lamp on the whimsical cabinet by minisx2.  I have this rescued sunflower lamp I made for The Newport that might be a fun addition to the room.

There will be either a floor lamp or table lamp for the easel area.  This one is from The Dolls House Emporium.  Painting and easel by Lyssa.

This one is from Dolls House Suppliers.  You'll notice that even though it is a floor lamp, I've still placed it on the table where it serves as an easel work light.  It will need a new finish, though.  :]

I bought the floor lamp before Monique wrote to tell me that she had found the other lamp I had been seeking.  Once that one arrives, I'll try it out, too.  Whichever lamp I choose, it will need a wiring channel.

lovely photo by Monique

For the bathroom, I bought a pair of modern vanity lights from The Dolls House Emporium.  Their channels will merge into one on the living room side so they can operate as a set.  The mirror is vintage Lundby, though I replaced the reflective glass with Darice mirror sheet.  The mirror and pedestal sink are placeholders and won't be in the final layout.

There will be another Lundby wall sconce with non-replaceable bulb above the front door.  This channel is also on the outside, and I will add another fun feature to cover that hole.

There will be at least one light on the outside, namely this modern coach lamp from Dolls House Suppliers by the front door.  I might switch it to the other side of the door, though.  Any other landscaping lights can be added later since the entire base is builders foam and channels can be cut easily at any time.

To finish off the build, there will be NovaLyte recessed can lights in the ceiling.  They illuminate the whole build so well and complement the softer tones of the non-LED lamps.

Time to drill holes and make channels!  :D

Left side roof addition and shingling

by brae  

Before gluing the roof addition wall onto the roof, I adjusted the template for the shingles.  I can't place any thickness under the chimney portion, so I marked where the shingles will be.  This is going to be an interesting bit of shingling.  :O

The lower portion of the left side roof addition completes the bathroom outer wall and the upper part is an attic wall.  I primed the top black and the bottom white.  A warp in the ceiling board developed on this bathroom corner when I installed the attic flooring.  I held the ceiling board down with masking tape while I mapped out my plan.

First, I drilled a bunch of holes in the ceiling board where it would be glued to the roof addition wall.  I cut the ends from straight pins to make headless pins and glued them into the drilled holes.

To mark the same spots on the roof addition wall, I dabbed some black paint onto the end of each pin and lightly pressed it to the wall.  I drilled holes to match and tested the fit but didn't get a photo.  :\

I drilled three holes in the roof board to stabilize the join with the roof addition wall.  I marked where these would be along the wall and drilled holes into the roof addition wall.  I cut the pins to fit.

I added another pin in the bathroom along the roof board.  I removed the longer pins in the roof board and spread glue where the pieces would meet.  I pressed the wall into place along the short pins in the ceiling board.  I then inserted the longer roof board pins into the predrilled holes.  This wall is solid!!!  Hooray!  :D

This photo also shows the exterior main chimney, the attic chimney and the covered chimney section in the bathroom.  When viewed together, they create the illusion that the chimney is a solid structure with the house built around it.

I made templates for the two areas where the roof board and the roof addition wall show in the bathroom.  I had to check the fit of the interior one with a mirror because there is no way to see in there otherwise.  I also used the mini bathroom lights as work lights.  :D

I then made a template for the attic wall.  This will have the same slat treatment as the rest of the attic.

Back to the roof template for shingling.  I started at the bottom and followed the same square and diamond pattern I had done for the front roof.  Once that section was cut and fitted around the chimney, I clipped it to the front roof to mark where the shingles would start on the top portion.

I finished the shingling and fitting on the template following these markings.  I'll adjust that top row of diamond shingles on the lower half to be straight across when I do the final shingling.

Looks like it worked!  :D

After gluing the shingles to the roof board, I painted the new roof with a blend of black and grey, then sanded the surface slightly to wear down the finish.

I still need to add the moss and address the flashing on the chimney, too.

Chimney gable trim

by brae  

Unlike the front and left side gables, the chimney gable on the right posed problems with the gable trim.  The chimney sticks out further than the roof edge and therefore blocks the space where the gable trim is intended to be.

The gable trim's tabs should align with the slots on the roof.

Whenever I have a situation like this, I try to find at least one real life example of a solution.  In this case, I found one from Eastern Kentucky University.  This shows the gingerbread trim added on either side of the chimney.  Works for me!  :D

I lined up the whole gable trim piece with the chimney in place (but still removable).  I marked the break on the main part first and made a few cuts to get a good fit.  I had to adjust the tabs on the gable trim to fit better.  Once I had that portion figured out, I measured and cut the smaller piece on the other side.   Success!

Up next will be cutting and preparing the bass wood eaves that will match the front eave finish...like this:

Chimney wall exterior finishing and attic work

by brae  

Remember how carefully I planned the siding around the chimney?

Yeah, well, it was somewhat a waste of time because it no longer lines up.  I'll need to edge the chimney with trim, which won't detract from the realism.

But, before I can glue the chimney in place, I do need to finish up the rest of the siding for the wall and the gable.  Since it would be a better fit if the gable shingles were under the chimney and the wall siding outside the chimney, that was the way I proceeded.

I painted and aged the siding and shingles to match the rest of the house.

I replaced the sliver of builders foam to cover the mass of wires at the base.  I didn't glue it...just pressed it into the groove.

I painted the wire from the flickering LED in the fireplace and finished up the landscaping on this back corner.  Well, there's more to be added here and there, but the grass is in place.

The chimney will cover the bare spot.  :]

I glued on the back roof piece for the left side and reinforced the joins with Tyvek where I could.

I did the same thing at the inside peak of the gable.  Had I not finished the front roof previously, I would have added the Tyvek over the roof ridge instead.

After grouting and aging the interior chimney piece, I installed the attic wall board and the chimney piece.  The main chimney is still removable.  It lines up so well, but once the extra wall is in place you won't be able to see it.  :\

Before I can glue the right back roof in place, I need to finish up the bedroom ceiling trim.  It will be easier to work in an open space without the back roof blocking part of the opening to the bedroom.  Another thing I didn't want to wait on was installing the rafters in the forward gable.  I cut the rafters to fit and glued them in place.  I love the way it looks!  :D

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