Continuing work on the Model T Van. The kit comes with tubing and wires to add realistic detailing to the engine compartment. The thin tubing is rather stiff, so in just about every instance it has broken off the tiny plastic rod that's supposed to hold it in place. =rolls eyes and mutters a swear= Instead of fighting a losing battle, I just snapped off the rods and drilled holes instead. :D Now the tubes and wires are secure with super glue and there are no parts to snap off under pressure.
They do add so much, no?
I've got the body panels in process behind the scenes and I am up to that point in the instructions, so it's time to jump around a bit while those are finished. The front and rear cabins are separated by a wall with an oval window. Since the pre-cut micro wood panel didn't fit well, I cut a new one instead. Since I knew I would never match the wood grain on the frame, I painted it black. I've stained all the micro wood with Minwax Cherry sealed with Delta Ceramcoat gloss varnish.
The back of the panel was to be left bare except for the very top, so I cut a piece of micro wood to finish it as well. I might have to do some trimming later in case this throws off the fit, but the wood is very thin and shouldn't cause too many issues. The oval window is meant to be installed from the back, but it looked unfinished to me without a frame on both sides. Since I have two kits, I was able to use both windows and have a frame on each side.
The black roof portions were sprayed flat black to even out the tone followed by Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2X Ultra Cover sealer in semi-gloss clear.
On the inside of the front roof, there's an included wood piece cut to fit. It's stained and sealed to match the rest of the wood.
I prepped the radiator, which will be needed in the steps to come. It might need a few flies. :D
Oh, and it's National Cat Day. :D Hooray for furry friends!
Just in case you were eyeing anything in my etsy shop, I am offering free shipping with a minimum $30 purchase to U.S. addresses through November 8. Use code OTTERINESHIP30 during checkout.
We've all been speaking of lists. Mine is also a bear. :\ I've been trying to do at least one thing per evening and concentrating on longer sessions on the weekends. Tonight, I worked on an etsy order and then finished up the black-eyed Susans. Say it with me, "Each thing I do is one less thing to be done." :]
Continuing work on the Model T van. The kit includes adhesive backed micro wood to simulate the parts that were wood on the real van. Since I have two kits, I have some excess. One of the kits had the pieces pre-cut and the other was not cut but had a printed pattern. So, I basically had the proper amount I need but with some extra wood to use otherwise. I wanted the option to add more wood where it was lacking and have some extra in case of disaster, so I bought two sheets of adhesive backed wood veneer from fortheloveofminiatures on eBay. One was likely more than enough, but why pay for shipping twice? :] This is also a good material to have in my stash for other projects as well.
I like to talk in correct terminology, but as of writing this post I am still trying to figure out which parts are which...so bear with me. The original kit fire wall has the wood on the outside (like the original auto). There is no wood piece for the interior, though you can certainly paint the simulation. I used the pre-cut wood for the exterior fire wall. I finished all of the micro wood pieces in Minwax Cherry with Delta Ceramcoat gloss varnish. The cherry is a warm finish without being too dark. I painted the raised details gloss black since there would not have been a way to get matching brass accents.
Unlike the real auto, the kit dash is molded in two pieces. The front piece has the coil box molded in place. I've seen these boxes in wood (with dovetail joints) and black. As a compromise, I painted the front dash piece black in its entirety since masking would have been difficult. I cut micro wood for the back dash piece. I masked the front cabin floor and sprayed it flat black. After the paint dried, I dry brushed some browns and greys to add some weathering to make it seem like a separate mat. The speedometer was molded in brass, and I added black to the face to make the details stand out.
I painted a faux wood finish to the steering wheel.
I painted the wood grain portions of the floor board with Krylon Brown Boots satin spray paint. I used acrylic washes to accent the grain and add weathering.
I showed the gas tank in a previous post, but now it's time to install it. The kit didn't come with the straps, so I've fashioned those from paper. This great video details how to check the gas level (no dash indicator) and the oil (no built-in dipstick). :D The video shows a later model than what I am building, so there's a lot less wood on it.
The bottom has darker washes from road exposure. I haven't yet aged the bottom of the gas tank.
Looks like we're getting somewhere! :D
Continuing work on the Model T Van. The past couple of steps have used the "brass" finish parts that are factory painted in high gloss. While having the brass parts modeled in shiny color is great, sometimes they are not attached to the sprue in the best locations. When you separate them, you can end up with bare plastic showing in spots. Additionally, sometimes the kit manufacturer will put parts on the "brass" sprue that weren't brass on the original automobile.
I want a reasonably accurate model, though I am willing to fudge for the sake of sanity and aesthetics in many places. For parts that are supposed to be brass but end up with bare plastic showing, my fix is to paint black accents. Accurate? It's questionable. Does it look better on the model? Definitely. For parts that aren't supposed to be brass but come with that finish, you can just repaint them the proper color.
The lamps and acetylene generator are made from multiple pieces, so you end up with seams and bare spots from the sprue connections. I briefly read about the lights here, but I am certainly no expert and didn't do exhaustive research. I have seen some lamps in partial black and some in all black. The same applies to the acetylene generator. This seems dependent on year of manufacture. So, I am using some artistic license and going with black housings accented in brass. This will allow me to make the seams less noticeable and cover the bare spots as needed. I'll sacrifice complete accuracy for a model that looks more polished and realistic.
The original acetylene generator looks cheap and plastic in the factory brass finish.
After two coats of Testors semi-gloss black, it looks more like a metal canister (I masked the side clips to leave them brass). The emergency brake and clutch lever as shown in this informative video on how to drive a Model T is black but the kit part was brass. I painted it Testors semi-gloss black.
I added a jewelry finding to the top of the generator since there was no way to paint a topper to match the side clips. I bought this box of bits at one of the local mini shows.
Here's one headlight with some of the brass finish missing after cutting from the sprue.
I painted the inside of the housings silver to add realism and reflective surface. I also added punched metal circles to the backs to make the seam less obvious. I had to sand the edges of the glass inserts to get the right fit then carefully glued the housings together. I primed them in flat black and painted gloss black.
I then glued the housings to the lamp brackets already attached to the chassis in an earlier step. I'm thinking brass jewelry findings can be added to the front to clean up the frame and make for a more convincing lamp, but for now this will work. One of the lenses fogged from the glue, but it's not terrible. We'll just say that it's dusty. :D
I like the black, though the light body color should make them stand out a bit more than they do right now.
Once the glue sets overnight I'll add the gas lines. The kit comes with thin tubing to simulate these.
Next up, some front cabin work.