My dear friend Martha sent me a lovely gift in the mail.  She painted a portrait of Gustav's father Édouard for Watson Mill.  :D  So delightful!  I can clearly see the resemblance and an inherited fashion sense!

Thank you so much, Martha!  I will treasure your thoughtful gift.  :]

Time to install the wall sconce in the upper bedroom while wallpapering -- it will make sense in a minute.  I had made the channels for the wires previously.  The sconce wires will not be poked through the wall to the exterior but instead will run on the interior wall to the open attic space.  The downstairs floor lamp wire runs on the outside, up to the bedroom wall channel.  I put a small piece of tape over the interior channel to help hold the wires while still allowing for movement.  A whole strip of tape would stick to the wires too much and make it difficult to pull them through.  This will matter more for the next step than it did for the floor lamp.  I masked the floor prior to working as well to prevent glue mishaps.

The bedroom sconce wires run through this curved channel, which will be covered by wallpaper.  I had to get the sconce attached to the wallpaper, paste the wallpaper in place, and run the wires into the channel all in one step.  I marked where the sconce channel began behind the wallpaper.  I poked a hole in the wallpaper and fed the wires through, leaving the sconce loose.  (My small tape piece isn't shown here since this was my dry fit trial.)

Of course, I first double checked the height.  :]

I then applied Wallpaper Mucilage to the paper.

I fed the wires behind the tape and through the channel.  Using my third and fourth hands (bahahahaha), I pressed the wallpaper down while pulling the wire through the channel, pausing for a second to apply some glue to the back of the sconce so it would remain in place once the wires were pulled taut.  I then smoothed, straightened and stopped swearing.  ;D  Here you can see the side tabs that soften the joins in the corners.

The two side pieces of wallpaper were much easier to install.  I applied the paste to the paper and then eased them in place, overlapping the tabs from the front wall.  I taped the tail end of the wires in the open attic space then used my color-coded wires to electrify and label the sconce.

The upper room will have baseboard trim and a table lamp, but I need to address the dumbwaiter gate and ladder railings first.  So, that's a wrap for today.  :]

Time to prep the upstairs bedroom wallpaper.  I lucked out with a great find at the recent Wee "c" Miniatures Show 2017 - a vintage paper from Mini Graphics called Gallery Flower.  Since it came rolled, I pressed it flat on the table for a couple weeks before using.  I had traced the wall outlines before assembly, so these helped me make paper templates to check the fit before cutting the final paper.

There were only two sheets of the paper in the roll, so I had to be careful with my cuts.  I was able to get the three pieces needed to cover the bedroom from one sheet, leaving a couple of small scraps and one full sheet in case of disaster during installation.  The light paper color will help keep the room from becoming a dungeon once the roof is on.

The upper floor will have stained baseboards, so I propped them in place to check the color and fit.  They are lighter than the flooring but don't clash since the paper is light.

Next up, figuring out the lighting before installing the paper.

The Ray Storey floor lamp wire runs on the outside, up to the bedroom wall channel.  I had made the channels for the wires previously.  To install the floor lamp, I made one of my usual faux wall outlets from copper card stock.  I have only one more lamp requiring an outlet, but I made four to have matching decorative outlets as well.

I finished the wire with a false plug, added a receptacle cut from stickers, and ran the wire up the outside.

I glued the ceiling board in place.  To help with stability, I added strip wood on the upper floor where the wiring space will be.

I installed the two ceiling lamps from the first floor and ran the wires into the attic space.  These are new old stock ceiling light kits by Illinois Hobbycraft.  I spray painted the metal rings Krylon Antique Bronze.

Since I put the wallpaper in prior to putting in the ceiling board, I needed some small crown molding to finish the upper edges.  I stained this Minwax Driftwood to coordinate with the other finishes.

I checked the fit of the upper flooring and cut the holes for the two openings before gluing it in place.  I had previously stained the red oak flooring with Minwax Dark Walnut, sealing with two coats of Delta Ceramcoat Matte Varnish.  Next up was installing the small side wall to complete the bedroom space.

Here you can see the wiring from the floor lamp running through the bedroom channel.  I put a few small pieces of tape over the interior wiring channel to make a pocket for the wires while still allowing for movement.  The bedroom sconce wires still need to be added to this channel.  A whole strip of tape would stick to the wires too much and make it difficult to pull them through.

I stabilized the wall with pieces of mdf.  As you can see, the attic space will provide good access to the wiring.

Continuing work on the door and windows.  I painted a Houseworks window for the main floor, using stained trim for the interior.  The corner joins are somewhat pronounced from the stain, but it won't matter with the window coverings and furniture placement.

I had to pad the exterior frame with strip wood since the thickness of the wall is 3/8" but these are meant for 1/2" thick walls.

As noted previously, I had to repair the window opening for the round upper window due to a wandering Dremel.  I cut strips of cardboard and lined the hole until I had a suitable diameter to hold the window in place.  This fix will be covered by wallpaper on the interior and wood shingles on the exterior.

While I love the 2 1/4" Simplicity Window from Heritage Laser Works, the front wall is 3/8" thick.  Each window comes with one 1/8" thick center mullion piece and two 1/32 thick outer trim pieces.  I bought three windows to have the parts needed to address the thicker wall.  I will use two center mullions, one on each side of an acrylic window.  I cut the cross bars from the third mullion piece to finish out the required thickness.

I glued three of the outer trim pieces together to make a thicker exterior trim piece then glued the two remaining outer trim pieces together to make the interior trim piece.

For the 1 1/8" Simplicity Window from Heritage Laser Works, a little more work will be involved since the pieces aren't as thick.  But, to start, as with the larger round window, I glued four of the outer trim pieces together to make the exterior trim piece then glued the two remaining outer trim pieces together to make the interior trim piece.

I glued the outer trims to one mullion piece for each window.  I won't glue the windows in just yet since I want to use them as guides for cutting the shingles to fit.   I painted these Americana White Birch in satin.

The interior trim is stained Minwax Driftwood.

I think I am ready to get the ceiling installed, then lighting, then back to the dumbwaiter and the ladder.  :]